Home » 南马 Southern Region, 阿贤人情味 Taste with Jason

“蟹”斯底里 Crab Addict

30 May 2008 38 Comments

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俗话说，坐有坐相，立有立相，当然，进食也得有个食相。然而，吃螃蟹却实在顾不了食相。

先是用手掰开蟹壳，吸吮壳上的膏黄油脂，动作犹如情人亲嘴时欲罢不能的样子，非得要心无旁骛，否则一个游离的眼神，或许就无法全情投入。再来就是把蟹身拗开对折，循着蟹肉的纹路，如同吃橘子一瓣瓣地撕下来品尝。

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接着就是双螯，用锤砧猛敲得砰砰作响也好，手握钳子钳至“尸首分离”也罢，最终好像都难免有一股 “怜香惜玉”的情操上身似的，攫取每一块蟹肉，把它吃个干净利落，痛快淋漓。

遇上真正的蟹痴可就更加了不起了，八只蟹脚一只也不放过，连壳带肉咬得吱吱作响，享受的神情不亚于狗狗啃咬骨头，神乎其技地将蟹脚“粉身碎壳”之余，还顺口把蟹壳往桌上喷吐。

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我虽然称不上是百分百的蟹痴，但是每一次吃螃蟹，几乎都会吃至双手沾满了蟹黄蟹腥、蟹壳不留一丝肉屑，才肯罢休。

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若有机会看到我吃螃蟹的德性，想必你也会认同孔老夫子所说的“食、色，性也” 。饮食和性欲一样，都是人类难以克制的原始冲动之一。

最近，我又囚禁不住这股冲动了，罪魁祸首正是芙蓉的烧螃蟹—芙蓉烧蟹海鲜村的“原味烧蟹”和新日昇餐馆的“妈蜜烧蟹”。

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芙蓉烧蟹海鲜村的原味烧蟹，蟹如其名，以突显螃蟹的原味为卖点。烧烤前，店家会在螃蟹外壳涂上独家调味料，一经烧烤，原本黯青的蟹壳随即通红，发出犹如红玛瑙的鲜艳光泽。上碟时还冒着烟的烧蟹散发着馥郁诱人的芳香，每一只都体大肥美，肉质厚实饱满，味道如同干贝般甘甜鲜美。

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咸香清甜的调味料非常安于本分，丝毫也没有喧宾夺主，蟹肉原汁原味的鲜甜，吃起来似乎连舌头也要随着融漾开去，叫人不得不边吃螃蟹边吮手指。

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原本以鱼头米粉和砂锅生鱼打响名堂的新日昇餐馆，在10年前推出烧蟹大餐，首创的“妈蜜烧蟹”自推出后便横行无阻，成功征服了无数饕餮的味蕾。店主先把洗净的螃蟹下锅炸得酥脆香郁，然后才加入独家配方的妈蜜酱一起烧烤，直到酱汁完全干透才上碟。

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剥开蟹壳，鲜艳的媽蜜醬汁早已染红了雪白的蟹肉。刺激味蕾的酱汁，将螃蟹的鲜美衬托得恰到好处，吃起来肉脂丰盈，煞是开胃。

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无论如何，这么久以来，让我最回味的，依然是母亲亲手炮制的清蒸螃蟹。曾经当过小吃摊贩的母亲，虽然不懂什么“九雌十雄”的理论（九雌十雄意即农历九月吃雌蟹最好，这时蟹黄最为丰富，十月则该吃雄蟹，因为蟹膏（精巢）丰腴），然而对挑选螃蟹，她却自有一套。

从小，她便教我如何分辨雄蟹与雌蟹，腹脐尖尖的是雄蟹，圆圆的就是雌蟹。选螃蟹应该尽可能挑含水分较少、较为饱满结实的雌蟹，尤其是那些壳硬发青、脐腹洁白、膘肥体健、膏脂鼓胀得就要呼之欲出的螃蟹，为上乘之选。

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清蒸螃蟹的做法并不复杂，用线绳将活蟹的蟹螯捆绑，入锅蒸时加些生姜和食盐解腥避寒即可。印象最深刻的是，每每打开蟹壳，蟹黄就会像火山泥浆般流溢出来，入口绵绵密密，甜美的滋味妙不可言。每一次吃完，指尖上残存的蟹腥，在反复洗涤了好几天之后，却始终挥之不去，回味特别悠长。

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管有人说，人们会特别怀念小时候吃过的食物，是因为儿童的味蕾较成年人的数量更多、分布得更广，我却更情愿相信，味蕾有记忆，也有情感。

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• 芙蓉烧蟹海鲜村

地址：3720-3724, Jln Tuanku Munawir,Seremban, N. S.D.K.

电话：06-7641260/012-6287661

• 新日昇餐馆

地址：103, Tmn A.S.T, Jln Labu Lama, 70200 Seremban, N. S.D.K.

电话：016-3619595

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38 Comments »

  • chantel said:

    好丰富的螃蟹大餐啊！看了都流口水，好想去吃喔！可惜太远了！（*_*）

    # 30 May 2008 at 9:50 pm
  • janice said:

    Good crab dish .

    But for me , i refer this Salted Egg Yolk style CRAB. Malacca have few good restaurant have such crab style .

    1) STRAITS SEAFOOD CORNER – Melaka Raya ( nearby wings cafe )
    2) 肥李 – Opposite City Bayview Hotel
    3) 路夜园

    Hope u all like my share . TQ .

    # 31 May 2008 at 4:42 pm
  • 阿良 said:

    還是一樣…沒的去…看就夠了..賢哥,加油加油^^

    # 1 June 2008 at 12:40 am
  • 露梅 said:

    下个星期二（6月3日）与家人去Tanjong Sepat寻找美食。
    记得您在《阿贤人情味》里曾经介绍过Tanjong Sepat的美食，
    迫切需要这方面的资料，请帮帮忙。谢谢。

    # 1 June 2008 at 4:13 pm
  • Jocelyn said:

    How come no more on TV???

    # 1 June 2008 at 10:15 pm
  • liang_mui said:

    yes~~ can bring my mum there.. she’s a crab lover!! tq, axian!

    # 2 June 2008 at 11:30 am
  • Emilyteoh said:

    hi….for ur infor…tg sepat food…my mum is from there…so u must go to “lin zhi farm”…to visit the many type of musroom..for seafood u can go to “lover bridge” to eat…ha ha…

    # 2 June 2008 at 11:39 am
  • Emilyteoh said:

    i would like to recommend one of the crab restoran at pj sunway mas….the restoran name call “wong poh restoran” the cheese crab is very famous and tasted but just a bit expensive RM38/KG…..not bad…can have a try…

    # 2 June 2008 at 11:43 am
  • kailoon said:

    no map? I want to go …

    # 2 June 2008 at 10:30 pm
  • 杨佳贤 (author) said:

    露梅，

    希望我还来得及回复你，不好意思，来迟了。

    别担心，即使是第一次到Tg Sepat也不难走，丹绒士拔是一个由数条街道组成的小镇，美食地点非常集中，而当地居民都非常愿意为你指路。

    就像Emily所说的，你可以去宝芝林（灵芝园），有路牌指示。然后你可以跟店家索取一张Tg Sepat的地图，依照地图你可以去品尝当地的美食—

    - 海友兴包点茶室

    - 阿福海鲜肉骨茶

    - 海鲜店（靠近情人桥有好几家）

    - 零食乐园

    - 果园

    - 鱼丸厂

    大饱口福之余别忘了到景致如画的情人桥走走哦！现在是学校假期，希望不会太拥挤。Enjoy!

    阿贤

    # 3 June 2008 at 8:10 am
  • Yss said:

    佳贤，在Selangor有如此美味的螃蟹吗？
    想带家人们去享受一下…
    Pls …

    # 3 June 2008 at 12:37 pm
  • Malcolm said:

    Wow, a good introduction. Talking about crab, there is a restaurant at Kemaman, which is very famous too(called Tong Juan restaurant)! It is fried rice with crab meat. Delicious! ^^

    # 3 June 2008 at 1:41 pm
  • Bryan said:

    阿贤人情味第三季几时开播哦？很心急。

    # 5 June 2008 at 12:21 am
  • 阿头 said:

    我本身就是 tg sepat 人！Emilyteoh，你现在住在哪？

    # 7 June 2008 at 7:22 pm
  • King Kong said:

    我想味蕾有的是最真实的记忆，就是这份记忆让我们成长中没有忘记自我吧！

    # 10 June 2008 at 4:43 pm
  • carman said:

    see the picture like very good taste oledi oh, i mis this chapter la.

    # 12 June 2008 at 8:19 am
  • CK said:

    很棒的蟹,我要吃,我最愛吃.

    # 13 June 2008 at 12:24 am
  • Hedy said:

    有芙蓉烧蟹海鲜村的地图吗?

    # 23 June 2008 at 4:33 pm
  • Felice said:

    How much per kg ar???

    # 24 June 2008 at 4:26 am
  • tc said:

    sg. buloh oso got good crab, sri-lanka crab, big one…

    # 6 July 2008 at 10:53 pm
  • 傻瓜 said:

    阿贤人情味很很好看噢

    # 9 July 2008 at 10:50 pm
  • 傻瓜 said:

    a xian i like u!!!!!

    # 9 July 2008 at 10:54 pm
  • xxxxx said:

    阿贤!!你的戏能不能介绍一些penang的食物呢？啊呀!我想起了penang有一个地方叫做:三條路的福建面.好好吃哦!!!不说了.拜拜

    # 16 July 2008 at 2:22 pm
  • Caryn Thoo said:

    Wei Jason,

    Do me a favor? Please write in English too…wanna know more

    # 21 July 2008 at 10:53 pm
  • Beh said:

    阿贤啊！！！你好啊

    希望你能多多介绍我们Penang的食品能吗？？
    大山脚的也能。。。。。。
    你还有去介绍吗？？？

    # 27 July 2008 at 10:30 pm
  • 天蠍女 said:

    我去过这家店吃过他家的妈蜜螃蟹，还有那个酱料。真的一级棒！！
    尤其四五月份膏黄蟹的季节，更一流呢！！

    # 7 August 2008 at 1:30 pm
  • yenfoolun said:

    you wont get this crab in other place!

    pls go to seremban and try it!

    the clay pot fish also must try!

    # 9 September 2008 at 2:54 pm
  • Joyce K. said:

    Crabs, one of my many fascinations!!

    # 30 September 2008 at 2:06 pm
  • feichiw said:

    賢哥，有辦法向你拿您為我們介紹芙蓉新日昇餐館的沙褒生魚的照片嗎？哈哈

    # 7 October 2008 at 3:57 pm
  • 9916 said:

    哇。。。看到我流口水….两样都是我的最爱哦。。。

    # 27 November 2008 at 4:19 pm
  • gloomy said:

    那時播出後..我和朋友就特地駕車去芙蓉的新日升點了魚頭米粉&魚頭煲&蟹..可是..還好..有點失望噢..反而在沙登新村有一家在自家門口的魚頭米粉超好吃..可能是比較喜歡濃濃紹興酒的味道吧﹗
    蟹吃old klang road tmn desa 路口的酸辣蟹也很好噢﹗烤麵包配上酸辣醬…餓了…..

    # 3 January 2009 at 11:07 pm
  • Suet said:

    How to go the Seremban Crab Crab Place ? Can u show the map?

    # 1 April 2009 at 5:00 pm
  • michelin said:

    l have been there few time, but their food quality now getting worse, even service not good also…may be business too good …> out of control.

    # 1 April 2009 at 11:22 pm
  • michelin said:

    to suet

    GPS 2 43″ 21.56″ N
    101 56″ 16.50″ E

    l hope Axian can provide GPS location to us besides the location map for all his food recomendations. its very useful and easy to find. Thanks.

    # 1 April 2009 at 11:33 pm
  • crab lover said:

    i went to the seremban restaurant 新日升to try the 妈蜜螃蟹 & fish head noodle.. to my disappointment the fish head noodle was not wat i expect at all.. to me its worst than “dai pang dong”.. the crab leh too salty.. less than a kilo of crab cost me about rm70.. i would not wan to go back to that restaurant again…

    # 25 April 2009 at 6:31 pm
  • amy yong said:

    Hi Janice,

    1) STRAITS SEAFOOD CORNER – Melaka Raya ( nearby wings cafe )
    2) 肥李 – Opposite City Bayview Hotel
    3) 路夜园

    Is the above restaurant halal or non halal?

    Thanks!!!

    # 24 July 2009 at 2:59 pm
  • levin said:

    I have heard about a popular fish-head noodle in Seremban for quite some time and on a number of visits to Seremban I have tried but failed to locate it.

    Last Sunday, after a family outing to Pedas Hot Spring, my brother Jeffrey took us there for dinner and I find that the fish-head noodle is indeed good. It has no smelly fishy taste in it which is just what I like.

    In addition to the Fish Head meehoon, we also have:

    * 1 kg of crab fried with Marmite
    * 1 kg of crab fried with salted egg
    * 1 big chunk of fried pork leg
    * Mantis prawn fried with dried chillies
    * fried vegetable
    * mixed vegetable and tofu

    We paid RM208 for the meal which I think is quite reasonable for a sumptuous meal of 6 adults and 3 children.

    # 15 August 2009 at 11:24 am
  • vivi said:

    nice to eat at seremban… tis
    i from seremban…

    # 9 November 2009 at 4:07 pm