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遇见太平人 回家吃饭 (Taiping Lang)

23 March 2008 49 Comments

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有人说,外头的菜再好,也比不上妈妈烧的菜。

无可否认,妈妈煮的饭菜,就是有一种家的味道,别人根本无法取代。

可是直到遇见“太平人”之后,我才知道,竟然有人可以做菜,做得那么像我妈妈烧的菜。

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来自太平的店家,在高挂的牌匾上直截了当地以“太平人”三个大字来表明来历,“太平人 Taiping Lang” 叫起来,便有一份以太平人自居,以太平菜为荣的自豪感。尽管开业只有短短的两年多,这家室外绿意盎然、室内则古朴幽雅的太平人餐馆,早已累积了不少常客。

第一次踏进“太平人餐馆”,我就感到好奇,怎么店家的酱油肉(Tau Yu Ba)、亚叁鱼、鱿鱼炒沙葛(Bangkuang Cha)和咸菜尾( Kiam Chai Buey)等传统槟城福建家常菜,简直就像自己在家里吃的一样呢?

当下激动的情绪,简直和他乡遇故知没有什么两样。

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后来才知道,原来店家“阿嬷”是完全遵循母亲的私房食谱下厨,而她的母亲正是我的同乡,原本来自槟城天德园,后来才嫁到太平。难怪“太平人”的餐牌都印有美姨母亲的照片,并写上“阿嬷之美飨”的口号。

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其实“太平人”提供的菜色并非什么饕餮大餐,而是一般福建家庭的家常便菜,然而在家常菜都不再家常的这个年代,反而是这些尽管普通却早已“买少见少”的传统小菜,更显弥足珍贵。

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青椒黄姜鱼(Achat Hu)是其中一道如今已经难得一试的传统小菜。阿嬷先把黄姜、醋、糖和盐下锅爆香,借以揪出黄姜最本色的酱汁。然后再把黄姜汁淋在事先煎到金黄香脆的鱼肉、切片的红青辣椒、嫩姜以及蒜头,腌制至少两三个小时才能上桌。煎得干香酥脆的鱼肉块,沐浴在由青红辣椒、黄姜、醋、蒜头和酸柑汁煮成的酱汁,色彩纷呈,每吃一口,都纵容味蕾同时游走于似酸非酸、似甜非甜、似辣非辣的多层次味觉享受。

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 太平人的小菜卖相虽然看似简单,但是许多都是依照古法烹调,丰富的配料足以媲美娘惹菜,例如冬菇烘肉(Hong Ba)便是采用了桂皮、八角、五香粉、酱油、胡椒、大葱和蒜头等十几种香料、调味料下锅爆香,并加入冬菇和肥瘦兼备的后腿肉翻炒,然后还要放入气压锅焖煮一个多小时,后腿肉在多种香料的调教下,吃起来五味杂陈,口口生香,肉质非常松软丰腴。

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鱼包(Hu Pau)的踪影,在中马或南马的餐桌上同样难得一见。为了炮制这种北马风味的鱼包,阿嬷索性自行栽种下菜必备的山栳叶,骨子里依然坚持,要么不煮,要么就要坚持最原汁原味的煮法。

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看似乌打鱼(otak-otak)的鱼包,做法却有别于一般烤制的乌打鱼。裹上香蕉叶的鱼包,相对地以较温和的蒸煮方式完成。细致嫩滑的马友鱼肉,在山栳叶和椰酱辣椒香料的衬托下,口感湿润软糯,味道鲜甜香辣,椰香诱人。

肉卷(Ba Kian)则是加入太白粉、玉蜀黍粉、五香粉和蚝油等多种配料,连同剁碎的虾肉、猪肉、马蹄、红萝卜和大葱等搓揉均匀之后,先放入冰箱冷藏一个小时,让肉糜完全入味,然后再用腐竹皮包裹,才下锅油炸,让人每吃一口都香喷酥脆,咸香鲜甜。

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当年,年纪小小的阿嬷已经开始向母亲学习下厨,经历了60多年岁月的锤炼,阿嬷的一身好厨艺,轻易地就让食客尝到了独有的历练。几十年来恰恰因为母亲的严格要求,阿嬷自然养成了对每一个小细节都非常执著的烹饪态度,譬如店里大部分的配料和调味料都指定要某个品牌或产自某个地方。
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我想,这是阿嬷的坚持,也是阿嬷独有的功力。毕生的下厨经验,足以让她认定,哪一种用料,哪一个品牌最好。也唯有对选材绝对执著了,阿嬷才有信心,炮制出大家记忆里“从小吃到大”的味道。

尽管擅长烹煮的小菜不计其数,可是阿嬷却从来没有想过要开办餐厅。成立餐厅的主意,其实是源自于阿嬷的几个在吉隆坡工作的女儿。恰恰因为想吃妈妈烧的菜,也想让更多常年在外的游子,尝到他们久违的一份“家的味道”,阿嬷的女儿毅然在2005年年尾开设了这一家以家常便菜为主题的餐厅。

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为了带给顾客“回家吃饭”的感觉,店家坚持让顾客随意添饭,不另收费,同时还推出三菜一湯的套餐,每隔两天换一次。

吃不够,还可以随时添饭,这便是在家吃饭,才能尝到的一份随心所欲。

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怀旧的歌曲、暖黄色的灯光、古朴典雅的装潢以及阿嬷烧的家常小菜,让置身于太平人餐馆的食客,仿佛就回到了小时候,回到了自己的家。在餐桌上三扒两拨地,很容易就叫人回忆起家乡的味道和儿时的记忆。

可见,人的乡愁和童年的回忆,始终离不开美食的滋味。

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贪吃地点〉〉太平人之美飨 (Restoran Taiping Lang)
地址:19-01, Jalan Kenari 18B, Bandar Puchong Jaya, 47100 Puchong, Selangor.
营业时间:11:30am-3pm; 6pm-10pm
电话: +603-80762686
阿贤贪吃推荐: 冬菇烘肉(Hong Ba)、辣酱虾米(Sambal Hae Bi)、罗惹( Rojak)、亚叁鱼、咸菜尾( Kiam Chai Buey)

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辣酱虾米(Sambal Hae Bi)– 捣碎的虾米加入了亚参水、柑叶、辣椒和多种香料炒香,绝对是下饭的好菜。记得小时候,单是这一道菜,便足以让一家人吃个好几顿饭。

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亚杂/ 娘惹泡菜(Achat)- 淡淡的芝麻香味与浓郁酸甜的亚杂味纵横交错,叫人欲罢不能。

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这是我每一次必点的罗惹( Rojak),太平人独家自制的罗惹酱料不是一般坊间的货色,丝毫不比槟城的罗惹逊色,浓郁的虾膏酱、巴拉煎和花生香味令人销魂。

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俗称青蛙蛋的明角子凉粉,是一种草本凉粉。

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原来阿嬷烹煮的,正是源自于槟城的传统福建家常菜,由于槟城华人的烹饪手法普遍受到娘惹菜和泰国餐的影响,配料和香料的运用特别地丰富多样。

美姨自10几岁便开始向母亲学习下厨,如今71岁的她依旧认为,烹饪是她毕生最大的兴趣。积累了60多年厨龄的她庆幸二女儿的厨艺也已经可以独当一面。

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49 Comments »

  • GHOST...AND...PEOPLE said:

    WAH!!!!
    VERY NICE…^_^
    SO NICE..^_^
    I LIKE..^_^
    LIKE VERY MUCH..^_^
    THANKS FOR A XIAN OH..^_^
    NEXT TIME REPLY AGIAN LA..^_^

  • AnS said:

    Cool ~~!!
    near my mom’s office…..
    can everyday go eat !!!

    ‘;,..,;’

  • shawn tan said:

    其实,阿贤人情味的地方美食介绍方式,不单清楚细腻, 还真的附有人情味!近来美食旅行团很受亚洲人欢迎!个人觉得这美食系列节目,如果能在亚洲区域传播,肯定可以吸引旅客(食客)来马来西亚!

    阿贤,你行!!

  • michael said:

    thanks A Xian ……
    ……………lovely dishes….
    watery …..>>>>

  • mikiko said:

    nice nice

  • TF said:

    never know there is a good restaurant near my house. thanks for the good introduction, hv plan for dinning this weekend with my family.

  • Chris said:

    Axian, i will go to try very soon as i live in Puchong too but i don’t know about this restaurant until tonite. I love spicies-otak, sambal, petai, etc etc….i will definitely want to go! I wonder do i have to reserve table? Hope to get what i want….when i get to taste real nice food, i will feel warm and fortunate and there is nothing that can make me feel in that way! But i gain another 3 kgs recently and i am afraid after i go to Taiping Lang, my weight will go up again, hope you then introduce some other light and healthy nice foods in K.L. or Selangor in order to balance up my diet, Thank you, Axian.

  • ricky said:

    阿贤,回味无穷,谢了

  • penang's guy said:

    your progam very nice, i ever sunday also had to wacth it…but some more place very far, no time and trasport can go there to taste the food…but on this taiping lang indise the progam’s food, i think it not more differnt with penang nyoya food, so penang lang also can get the taste in penang lo…anyway i hope your progam can get more of oversea ppl to know that whene them come to malaysia also can try differn state differn malaysia food lo…

  • Kevin said:

    If got list the pricing more good. Hope ah xian can improve it.

  • Julie said:

    My mom called me this morning to ask me to check out where is “Taiping Lang”… she’s so excited about the food being introduced and wanted so badly to try it… To my suprise, it is sooooo near my house!!! As my parents are staying in Cheras, i will definitely plan soon to bring them there.
    阿贤… u r the best!!!

  • 草日大 said:

    wau! look so taste, i will try it…..

  • chong wei king said:

    Axian, I am from Brunei .

    I know you on AEC , last night to see your movie.

    So nice, so happy.

    If Brunei have a restorant like Taiping Lang, i can tell you everyday full house!

    At last, hope you enjoy your work !

    Cheer !

  • Rockerteers said:

    Well, this is what I have been looking for cos this what my mom has been cooking for years. Can’t find a good homecook of Penang Nyonya food in KL. Will definately go and try out this weekend.Wish this page can be in English so that more readers will be able to enjoy your food journey.

  • J.T. said:

    I hv missed this show due to MU /LIVERPOOL,BUT Tks ! You hv done a good jobs ! After going thru yr Website , I’ll try this shop within this week

  • Waysly said:

    Yummy Yummy !
    口水已流来了!

  • taipingmali said:

    When it was first opened about 2 years ago, my family and I hv tried the food here and we commented that this place will be very popular soon. We are from Taiping also but have now reside in Puchong. The food is very close to my mother’s cooking and has certainly brought back many nostalgic moments.
    We love the food there and the sambal belacan is one of the best I ever had. I tried asking the lady boss to sell me some but she refuse and instead gave me just a little for free.
    And Axian…. your program has brought back credibility of good food recommended by tv/papers. I hv been to five of the food before Axian came and there are totally HO SHEK> unlike those recommended by others in the TV/papers. also can u include english translation in this site?

  • Andy said:

    Wow!! XD I will go try it XD

  • ken said:

    I try chicken rice at Melaka B4, i try bak kut teh at sg Besi last few mth, my home town is “TAIPING” so i sure go to …….EAT EAT EAT!
    Thank A Xian let me know about this RESTAURANT. TQ!TQ!TQ!

  • Kenny said:

    谢谢你, 阿贤介绍给我们这么好的地方。

  • Ah Gee said:

    I also from Taiping but had settle down in Penang for more than 10 years.
    So great and proud of seeing the Taping Lang restorant whcih open at
    Puchong which triggered my childhood period at Taping. When seeing
    Ah Xian recommend the AH sam Hu and AH Chat really made my
    floor full of sliver.

    Ah Xian, fantastic recommendation and good program. Keep up the
    good work . Thanks for your colleage and all the program support
    behind the screen.

    Great Job and good team work.

  • Dav Ooi said:

    I am from Taiping, when i saw those food. i feel like im home. Really miss it so much. This is all taiping home cook food. When i was small my mom use tho cook this kind of food for all of us. Hehe..have to go there try, see whether got the same taste or not.

  • Evonne Cheah said:

    axian, thanks a lot!!!

  • stphanie said:

    i’m like to watch axian, may i know have what delicious food at kepong?

  • Nick said:

    After Ah Xian visited certain restaurant and promoted the food, do they really maintain the good service, the ingredient and being friendly as what they did in tv? Or they started to feel ego bcos their restaurant was recommend by Ah Xian and being shown in TV… Cos i saw certain ppl are complaining bout the seafood bak kut teh.. Are their service really bad? ANY COMMENT FROM OTHER??

  • 阿丝 said:

    我媽也煮一模一樣的菜,我外婆也像太平人的阿嬤,穿娘惹裝,我們都來自檳城。

  • Yi said:

    WAH this restaurant Taiping Lang near my house!!!! Will definately go and try out this week!!! Yummy Yummy ^_^

  • kailoon said:

    I like your show too!

    The food look nice and the environment I rate it 10! Err.. how is the price? I just starting working, so … have to budget :P

    Cheers!

  • Leong said:

    Actually tonite I want to try the dishes aiyaayaa………………………
    Just now I called this Taiping Lang restaurant , now they have alots of new customer even the shop not open yet already got many ppls Q up or keep waiting outsude the shop. ahhaahaa……………………..

  • 不平人 said:

    我也以为太平人的菜会像我家煮的一样。其实并不,价钱看似ok,菜一上碟才知自己上了贼船。份量实在是太少了,吃了都不“太平”,因为觉得不公道。二人份的套餐是28元马币。两碗没什么味道的汤,一碟两块鱼,一碟4块烘肉,一碟菜圃炒蛋(这是唯一一碟稍微多一点的菜)+ 少量的饭。建议减肥又嫌钱多的人可以上去吃。肉卷一碟要8元,4小条。这餐吃下来已经41 元加了饮料后。反应给店员,只是回应一句“吃不饱,再叫咯”。阿贤,观众是相信你的介绍,大家才想去吃吃看。尤其我们也不是住在蒲种的都下去吃。可知我们的诚意。但是受到如此的待遇,真的觉得很失望。不排除你的节目推出后,老板将我们当“菜头”来砍。那就太过分了。

  • thang said:

    take a one day must go to try! thanks to Axian recommend.

  • choo(TAIPING) said:

    yr food very gooddddddddddddddddd!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    recoman more Taiping food coz vera nice ha !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Moon said:

    Ah Xian,

    The food is really nice, this afternoon i just go to “Taiping Lang” Restaurant to having the lunch with my friends.

    we only have 3 persons, but we order 5 person food to eat….

    I won’t forget…….

    I’m waiting for your good show for this sunday…..

  • Jessie said:

    Axian,
    me and my friends tried out this restaurant soon after i came across a blog online (before your TV show), but i was very disappointed that most of the food is so so only (compared to our mum cooking..ha.ha), and was quite expensive too coz… the food served very little, i really miss Penang food especially nasi lemak with sambal balacan, asam prawn & fish….etc

  • choy25us said:

    All people said very nice! nice! nice! good! good! good!
    I think I’ll bring my girl friend to try .

  • siew mey said:

    really delicious. i really like it so much exspecially the achat and hu pau.i love it so much. my boss always bring us over here and have lunch here. yummy……..

  • karen said:

    今天我有去太平人吃lunch,真的有很顾客,但我吃过以后不见得很好吃。不过真的又在家吃饭的Feel..

  • Gylim said:

    the food is ok…but so expensive and so little!!!

  • fun said:

    Thanks i will go and try.

  • TF said:

    2day i go try with mama d, but too bad la, most d dishes set to set d, and abit expensive o… not special dishes but some food r nice, juz some like 鱿鱼炒沙葛 not too 够味…

  • mr.low said:

    taiping lang sell taste and nice food. place nice and tidy. pls. don,t said expensive. we must know all thing is raising like rocket. rental high. important ho…chek. .. ho…chek…..

  • Queenie said:

    味道還好,份量只是剛剛好,價錢更令人難忘,3人吃埋單RM65.00

  • Taiping Lang, Puchong « she, the epicuriousgirl. said:

    [...] looking for something different in Puchong when we spotted Taiping Lang with it’s prominent Axian (Taste with Jason) cutout board displayed outside. Encouraged by that we decided to step in the [...]

  • kay said:

    i cannot control my saliva adi…so niceeeeeeeeeeeee
    wat is ur program’s song title???I wan to download to my phone…
    if u know, reply me la

  • michelin said:

    totally agreed with 不平人.
    一次过。。。永不回头。。。

  • from Penang said:

    agreed with Jessie ….food is so so only lagi..very little, better to cook myself and enjoy makan puas-puas..i learned cooking from my mum and now i can enjoy Penang food anytime, do u miss…nasi lemak, sambal balacan, asam prawn/fish, tau yu ba, bangkuang cha ….

  • john said:

    food so so only!!!quite expensive !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    一次过。。。永不回头。。。

  • Ben said:

    食物其实真的很不错, 只是店家真的要赚太多了, 如果真是要大家能尝多点美食而把份量做成小量的, 那就连价格也下一下. 但是份量是少了, 但价格却一样, 结果是大家都吃不饱, 还要吃宵夜, 那长久下来这就不是大家常会选择的店了. 所以, 着么久以来, 只去一次, 还没想要回去.

  • annabel said:

    wa … so nice … i think my grandparent will like to eat …. the song also very nice …. feel like go back to last time …. but quite expensive …